Locavore: Sustainable Indonesian cuisine with a European twist

True to the meaning of the term 'locavore', this restaurant is all about using local produces. Every single ingredient is sourced sustainably from various parts of the 18,307 islands that make up Indonesia. Even the glassware, plates and silverware used in the restaurant are made locally. Locavore won the best restaurant in Indonesia in 2017 and has secured a spot in the top 50 best Asian Restaurants consecutively for the past three years. They also recently won the 'Sustainable Restaurant in Asia' award.

The restaurant itself has set degustation courses, and you can choose between the 'locavore' (carnivore) or the 'herbivore' (vegetarian) option. Each option comes with a choice of 5 or 7 main courses (with or without beverage pairing). I was tempted to try the 7-course meal, but it is recommended to set aside 3 hours for this experience, and I couldn't do so as I had plans later in the afternoon. So I decided to try the 'locavore' 5-course meal without cocktail pairing.

AMUSE-BOUCHES

To my surprise, the 5-course meals started with 8 amuse-bouches. I won't go into much detail about each amuse-bouche to maintain an element of surprise as these dishes are not advertised on their menu. One particular dish that stood out to me as distinctive and intriguing is the Bloody Mary sorbet with the tomato consommé and sea salt. The dish was cold and warm at the same time - a visual representation of how creative the team at Locavore are.

Description: black rice blini topped with smoked egg emulsion and brown rice puffs, pickled eggplant topped with sesame seeds in a dashi broth, grilled mango marinated in passionfruit juice, warm bread with condiments and watermelon tartare in a crunchy cup topped with seaweed

MAIN DISHES

The menu for the main dishes appears to change every month with a few guest favourites in rotation. Every single dish is prepared with imagination and flair. My favourite main meal was the Gurita Bakar, which is perfectly grilled octopus paired with kluwak, Averrhoa bilimbi, timun tikus, coconut curry and pickled spring onions.

Gurita Bakar: Grilled octopus paired with kluwak, averrhoa bilimbi, timun tikus, coconut curry and pickled spring onions.

Burung Puyuh: Roasted quail breast with barbecued quail leg glazed with smoked pumpkin and charred pineapple gel, topped with smoked pumpkin.

Goat Tartare: Lightly grilled, burnt eggplant, pickled eggplant, kecombrang, fermented shallots and charred coconut milk.

Cabbage & Bacon: Whole cabbage roasted in bacon fat, bacon dashi, cashew sour cream, bacon shallot crumble and lacto-fermented onion powder.

Update:

As of May 2019, the restaurant offers a 6 or 9-course degustation menu. Please check the website to see the updated menu.

DESSERTS

Following the amuse-bouches and the main dishes, I was presented with a palate cleanser before two desserts and a platter of chocolates and sweets after desserts.

I was very impressed by the Rosella granita with Mangosteen, Bubur Sumsum and the Mangosteen ice cream. I love mangos and mangosteen so I may be a bit biased about the main desserts.

The chocolate and sweets were presented on a traditional Javanese game board called 'congklak'. While this was visually impressive, there was nothing special about these sweets. I would have honestly preferred a bigger portion of the main desserts instead.

Rosella granita with mangosteen

Bubur Sumsum 2.0: Frozen rice porridge with fresh mangoes, crispy rice and mango vinegar

Mangosteen ice cream: Served on a husk with coconut flesh, nata de coco, coconut cream and lime zest

Chocolates and sweets served on a 'congklak'

Overall, I had a fantastic time at Locavore and I left Locavore with a full belly and a happy heart. I am impressed by the chef's dedication in using sustainably sourced locally grown ingredients to conjure sophisticated dishes with elements of Indonesian and European cuisine.

I would recommend getting the 6-course meal with or without the drink pairing as the 9-course meal would be a bit too much for an average person. The portions may look small by themselves, but you will be full by the time the sweets platter is served.

PRICES (as of May 2019) :

* I had the 5-course locavore option but the menu has been recently updated, and the prices below reflect this change.

Locavore Menu

6-courses: 895,000 IDR [Approx 89.35 AUD] or 1,395,000 IDR [Approx 139.25 AUD] with drink pairing.

9-courses: 1,195,000 IDR [Approx 119.35 AUD] or 1,845,000 IDR [Approx 184.25 AUD] with drink pairing.

Herbivore Menu

6-courses: 795,000 IDR [Approx 79 AUD] or 1,295,000 IDR [Approx 129 AUD] with drink pairing.

9-courses: 1,095,000 IDR [Approx 109 AUD] or 1,745,000 IDR [Approx 174 AUD] with drink pairing.

Prices are subject to 10% tax and 11% service charge.

CONTACT DETAILS

10 Jalan Dewi Sita,

Ubud Bali, Indonesia

Number: +62 361 977733

Website: https://www.locavore.co.id/

TIPS

• The restaurant tends to get booked out months in advance particularly for dinner, so I recommend booking ahead of your desired date.

• The dress code is smart casual but you can get away with wearing thongs/flipflops. However, alcohol-branded t-shirts, singlets and beachwear are not allowed.

• The restaurant is flexible with dietary restrictions and allergies, but I would recommend emailing the restaurant in advance.

• You will be charged if you are a no-show or late to your reservation by more than 15 minutes.

• Allow yourselves at least 2-3 hours to enjoy this experience. If you don't have sufficient time or don't fancy set meals, I recommend checking out the Locavore Deli just across the street as they offer an a-la-carte menu.

Jatiluwih Rice Terrace - An Underrated Balinese Adventure

Bali is a popular holiday destination for Australians with 1.18 million Aussies travelling to Bali in 2017 alone. While most Aussies are well acquainted with the cheap booze, sandy beaches, and wild nightlife, many miss out on exploring the fantastic scenery Bali has to offer as it is further away from the city centre. Currently, there are 8 UNESCO sites in Indonesia, and one of them includes the cultural landscape of Bali that comprises of five major rice terraces and their water temples. Two of the famous rice terraces are Tegalalang and Jatiluwih.

Tegalalang rice terrace is conveniently located 9km away from Ubud city centre and therefore is comparatively popular among tourists. However, this convenience comes at the price of massive crowds and tourist traps. Having lived in Indonesia for a few months at this point, I preferred going somewhere less explored and peaceful which lead me to Jatiluwih rice terrace.

JATILUWIH

Located approximately 90 mins away from Ubud city centre, this rice terrace nests at the foot of Mount Batukaru. The area comprises of 636 hectares of luscious fields at an altitude of 700m above sea level. In Bahasa, the words Jati means really and luwih means beautiful and true to its name, this flowing sea of green is one of the most extensive and picturesque rice terraces in Bali. This heritage site not only captures the spectacular view Ubud has to offer but also offers visitors a visual platform to observe the traditional Balinese way of life and culture.

UNESCO HERITAGE SITE

To understand the rationale behind this UNESCO world heritage site, one must understand the Subak system that manifests the Tri Hita Karana philosophy behind traditional farming. The Tri Hita Karana philosophy dictates that relationship between God, human and nature should remain intact to achieve prosperity and harmony in life. The subak method of irrigation invented in the 9th century comprises of five rice terraces (including Jatiluwih) and the water temples associated with these rice terraces. The subak method utilizes the Tri Hita Karana philosophy to ensure all three elements are in balance with each other.

Every 105 days, the water temples hold a cultural festival to celebrate the cultural landscape of the Bali province. This time frame also corresponds to the length of rice-growing season allowing farmers to use this festival as a guide to efficiently deploy water towards the rice terraces. Recognising the pivotal value of rice terraces in Balinese culture, the UNESCO declared the rice terrace system of the Bali province as a world heritage site in 2012.

COSTS

ENTRY

Fees for Foreigners: 40,000IDR [AU$4]

Fees for Locals & foreign students with KITAS: 15,000IDR [AU$1.50]

TRANSPORTATION

Most resorts in Bali/Ubud area would happily organise a rental car for you. However, if you are traveller on a budget or with a friend/partner, I recommend hiring a scooter and making your own way there.

Scooter: Between 50,000 - 70,000IDR [AU$5 - $7]

Car rental with driver: 600,000IDR [AU$60]

WHEN TO VISIT

I would recommend visiting the rice terraces early morning or late afternoon. I visited the terrace at dawn just in time for the sunrise and there was not a single soul in the area. I had plenty of time to explore the area and experiment with my drone. I was so early that the ticket office was closed and I would have gotten away with a free entry had I not run into a ticket officer as I was leaving the terrace. It was indeed an exhilarating experience exploring the area without running into tourists at every corner (something you will appreciate if you have been in Bali for a while). The recommended months to visit are between June to July (harvest season) and between October to February (monsoon season). Just remember to carry a poncho or an umbrella if you visit during the monsoon season.

TIPS

• Always have a bottle of water, sunscreen and mosquito repellent with you when exploring the rice terraces.

• If you want to spend a few hours hiking the rice terraces, I recommend staying at an accommodation nearby and visiting Jatiluwih over two days. The area itself is very rural as it is mostly farming communities so you will most likely have to stay in high-end resorts nearby or find a local homestay.

Have you visited any rice terraces in Bali? If so, please share your stories in the comments.